Day 28 – Tuscania Where Else Can We Eat?

purgatorio1With only a couple of days left we realized that there are still some restaurants that the owner’s of our villa recommended.  I don’t know if I mentioned the amazing book that they left us filled with notes on towns worth visiting, cards from the best restaurants all over, maps of cities and parking tips and directions all over Umbria, Tuscany and Lazio.  This book has been our bible while we’ve been here.  It’s given us ideas, helped us plan itineraries and always shown us the best places to eat!  (They also left an incredible array of tour books, history books and cooking magazines.  Everything we could need to research and prepare for our various journeys this past month)

So, with bible in hand we decided to pick out a restaurant on the other side of Lake Bolsena that we hadn’t yet explored.  We chose a restaurant called Purgatorio and plugged in the non-address into the GPS as best we could since there was no real street or number being right on the lake – somewhere.   The drive around the western edge of Lake Bolsena was very different than the Eastern side.  We worked our way through lush vegetation, tall grasses and tilled fields as well as vineyards and waving olive trees.   We finally arrived at the restaurant perched off a dirt road not 20 feet from the water’s edge.  If this was purgatory than all those sinners out there should be relieved. Continue reading

Days 14 and 15 – The Arrival of Granny and a Day in Orvieto

My mom (Granny) flew in to stay with us for the week.  We drove an hour and a half to the Rome airport to pick her up and then an hour and a half to bring her back here to Tuscania.  Between all that driving, making lunch, her jet lag and the girls’ excitement over her being here and all of the gifts she brought the day flew by and before we knew it it was dinnertime and the day came to a close.  Unfortunately so did my internet connection.  I had to call the DSL company, called Alice, which seems so oddly personal.  Between my terrible Italian and their terrible English I managed to get a trouble ticket put through and then prayed that service would resume in less than a week.  It was not fun.

watercoloring for riposos

watercoloring for riposo

The next day we went to Orvieto.  At this point I feel like a person recounting the same story over and over again but the drive was truly spectacular.  Orvieto is in Umbria, perched high above the world on a mountaintop with its Duomo reaching into the sky and visible for miles around.

approaching orvieto

approaching orvieto

The drive from Tuscania takes you around Lake Bolsena through Montefiascone and up the winding mountains.  When you finally arrive in Orvieto you park your car at the bottom of the hill and take a 1950s era funicular up the side of the mountain.  This was a definite highlight of the day for the girls.

Continue reading